Autoflower care & feeding by week

Autoflowers run on AGE, not light schedule — every stressed day is gone forever. This is the compressed-clock schedule our coach uses for auto-flagged plants.

WeekStageCare
Week 1Germination → seedlingPlain water only. High humidity (65-80%), gentle light. Do not transplant autos if avoidable — start in the final pot.
Week 2-3Early vegetativeFirst light feeding at ~25% strength once true leaves multiply. VPD 0.8-1.0 kPa. No topping yet; LST only if vigorous.
Week 4-5Pre-flower (autos flip on age, not light)Full vegetative feeding. Gentle low-stress training only — recovery time is yield you never get back on a compressed clock.
Week 6-8FloweringTransition to bloom nutrients. VPD 1.0-1.4 kPa, RH down to 40-55%. No high-stress training, period.
Week 9-11Ripening & flushWatch trichomes, not the calendar — autos finish on their own schedule. Reduce feed; many growers flush the final 7-10 days.

The three autoflower rules

1) Never transplant if you can avoid it — start in the final pot. 2) Train gently and early or not at all. 3) Harvest windows are cultivar-specific; judge by trichomes, not by breeder week counts.

Common questions

Do autoflowers need a light schedule change?

No. Autoflowers flower on age rather than day length, so growers typically run one schedule — often 18/6 or 20/4 — from seed to harvest.

Can I train an autoflower?

Gently and early. Autos cannot recover lost time in veg the way a photoperiod plant can, so low-stress training beats topping.

Why did my auto finish smaller than advertised?

Autos punish setbacks. Transplant shock, a pH excursion or a week of poor light in early growth cannot be recovered later, because flowering starts on schedule regardless.

What actually helps

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